What's the Big Deal About Perfect Fitting Pants?

I really didn't have a better title for this blog post, so I chose this cute and catchy one, lol!

But, on a serious note, after trying to get your pants to fit perfect, you get frustrated and wonder, :Do I really need my pants to fit perfect"? Well, maybe I'm the only one that has ever thought that....hmmmm. Anyway, It gets so confusing talking about the crotch, the rise, the "J", the "L", etc., etc. But, in all honestly, once you've mastered the fitting process and created yourself a TNT pattern or a pant sloper, you are so glad that you endured the process.... As the we heard so many times, "No pain, no gain".  My favorite saying is, "A dream comes through much planning and painstaking effort". 

This could not be more true when I had the opportunity to create my very own jean pants, the Jalie Jeans, in faux leather at that. So, not only did I have to make sure the fit was right, but I had to use the right sewing tools to work with faux leather. Needless to say, I am head over heels in love with my jeans ( I made a matching jacket, too).

In the process of making these jeans, I did not make a sloper or create a pant muslin, simply because I'm lazy when it comes to sewing for myself. I use to be able to do all my adjustments using the flat tissue pattern method. But, since my body has grown up, I REALLY need to do muslins more often. Lesson learned: If you spend quality time creating a muslin and fitting, the less time you spend in the sewing process and the better your results are.

Because I didn't create my muslin before hand, I had to keep making adjustments along the way on my actual fabric. The results were favorable, but, it took longer than it should have. And, did it without damaging my fabric ( this time).

Attention to detail is another priority when making pants. True story, I put my zipper in backwards. How? Nothing more than not paying attention. This was a fly front zipper that was completely inserted. Needless to say, I needed to get that zipper turned around. Pulling on a technique I learned at  a bridal store I worked at, I was able to just slide the zipper head off and reverse it. Voila, it worked!! I didn't have to take the whole zipper out. So, PLEASE pay close attention to every step. My mother would tell me when I got to a place where I was stuck and frustrated for lack of knowing what to do, she would say, " Put your project down, walk away from it, get some rest, and come back to it".

Another word of advise, don't ignore the reviews. This particular pattern that I made was reviewed over 150 times. And, the majority of the reviewers spoke of how the back waist gaped even if it said it fit. I didn't pay attention and ended up with a gaping back just like they said, thereby creating extra work.Never-the-less, the came out fantastic.! I was able to implement some techniques I picked up throughout my sewing years, such as sewing my waistband on backwards. I looked at how the waistband on the jeans were finished and sewn on. So, I decided that the best way to get this look and create a very even topstitching was to do as I said and sew my waistband on backwards. The results were perfect. Also, interfaced the entire waistband to give a more sturdy band that did not droop or sag.

I've already made this post long enough, but some really important things you should know is to have the proper thread, needle, and sewing feet when sewing your jeans. In my case I used thread comparable for leather jeans, likewise with the needle. You don't want a needle that's too big creating big holes in your garment, especially in my case, with faux leather. I used a size 14 needle. I highly suggest that if you are going to work with faux leather make sure you have a teflon foot. This foot helps glide over your slick fabrics evenly. I highly encourage you to use the feet the are recommended for your project. However, if you run into a situation like me, you have to do what you have to do as long as it works. With that being said, I did not have a teflon foot for my faux leather project...I just didn't think this project all the way through. But, I had this satin stitch foot in my accessories that worked like a charm.

On a last note, I encourage you to take in as much information as possible. Throughout my earlier sewing years, I gleaned from experts like Roberta Carr ( Couture: The Art of Fine Sewing), Nancy Ziemann,, Kenneth King, Sandra Betzina, Palmer/Pletsch, Susan Khalje,and ZSue Hausmann, several of which are still giving the same expert advise. Now you have, Craftsy classes, Youtube video tutorials, and many sewists and bloggers willing to share their knowledge and expertise. 

Knowledge + Application= Great results.

Practice makes perfect. Keep at it until you get the results you desire!

I so look forward to this great Jess Jeans sew-along... getting more practice at perfecting my pants fitting skills. Much success to you all!

If you would like to join me in the Jess Jeans Sew-Along starting this Tuesday, March 18th, go to www.iconicpatterns.com and click on the three blue bars on the top left corner, then click on SEW-ALONG.


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Comment by Alethia on June 2, 2014 at 6:36pm

Yes, Sew To Fit, you just don't get that advise anymore. Everything is quick, fast, and in a hurry. No one wants to take the time and money to do better. Everything is FREE. I have NOTHING against free. But, you get what you pay for. Free is limited. JMO.

Comment by SewToFit on June 2, 2014 at 11:51am

Great words of wisdom from the "old school" sewing teachers.  I learned so much from all the books and classes they taught in the 80s and '90s.  

Comment by Alethia on March 22, 2014 at 12:23am
Thanks Freckle 10!
Comment by Freckle10 on March 21, 2014 at 6:31pm

I haven't tried my jean patterns as of yet, but will in the near future. This  will be interesting in plus size. You have given some great advice. Thanks!





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